Gucci母公司又搞大动作，可能彻底改变模特行业

　　A major force in fashion says it will abandon the industry’s longstanding practice of using adolescent models—sometimes as young as 14—to represent adults in photo shoots and runway shows.

　　时尚界的一股主要力量表示，它将放弃该行业长期以来使用青少年模特(有时只有14岁)在照片拍摄和时装秀上代表成年人的惯例。

　　Kering, the parent company of labels including Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, and Alexander McQueen, has announced that starting in 2020 its brands will only hire models over age 18 to portray adults.

　　开云集团(Kering)宣布，从2020年开始，旗下品牌将只雇佣18岁以上的模特来扮演成年人。开云集团旗下品牌包括古驰(Gucci)、圣罗兰(Saint Laurent)、巴黎世家(Balenciaga)和亚历山大麦昆(Alexander McQueen)。

　　The decision follows a similar one by Vogue last year, to stop casting models under 18. Both had previously set policies banning models under 16.

　　《Vogue》杂志去年也做出了类似的决定，不再挑选18岁以下的模特。两家公司此前都制定了禁止16岁以下模特登台的规定。

　　Kering’s decision has met with some criticism for not going far enough. The advocacy group Model Alliance responded on Twitter, saying it’s a step in the right direction, but lacks an enforcement mechanism since brands tend to operate independently and make their own decisions about casting.

　　开云集团的决定受到了一些批评，认为它做得不够。倡导团体Model Alliance在推特上回应称，这是朝着正确方向迈出的一步，但缺乏执行机制，因为品牌往往独立运作，在选角问题上有自己的决定。

　　Without that, the pledge “will amount to little more than lip service,” the group wrote. “Moreover, this limited pledge does not address the broader issues that models face on the job — issues such as sexual harassment and assault, pressures to fit into tiny samples, late and nonpayment, and the lack of an independent complaint mechanism to resolve complaints.”

　　该组织写道，缺乏执行机制，承诺“只会是口头承诺”。“此外，这一有限的承诺并没有解决模特在工作中面临的更广泛的问题，比如性骚扰和性侵犯、穿上迷你样衣的压力、拖迟付薪和拒付，以及缺乏独立的投诉机制来解决投诉。”

　　There is growing awareness, at least, that something needs to change. The Council of Fashion Designers of America, the governing body of US fashion, supported Vogue’s policy change and encourages brands to only use models 18 and up.

　　至少，人们越来越意识到有些事情需要改变。美国时装管理机构美国时装设计师协会(Council of Fashion Designers of America)支持《Vogue》的规定变化，并鼓励品牌只使用18岁及以上的模特。

　　And Kering had already partnered with its luxury rival, LVMH, which controls such brands as Louis Vuitton and Dior, on a charter laying out rules for how their brands will work with models.

　　开云集团已经与其奢侈品竞争对手路易威登(LVMH)合作，制定了一份章程，为旗下品牌如何与模特合作制定规则。LVMH控制着路易威登(Louis Vuitton)和迪奥(Dior)等品牌。