你不知道的与H&M,Zara有关的污染真相

　　H&M, Zara and Marks & Spencer linked to polluting viscose factories in Asia

　　H&M, Zara and Marks & Spencer这些快消品牌与污染环境的工厂有关。

　　Major fashion brands are sourcing viscose from factories in China, Indonesia and India which are polluting and damaging health, according to new report

　　根据最新的报告，主要的快销时尚品牌都是在中国、印尼和印度的工厂采购黏胶，这些工厂产生污染，损害健康。

　　Major fashion brands have been linked to viscose produced in polluting factories, according to a new report by the Changing Markets Foundation.

　　根据不断变化的市场基金会的一份新报告，主要的时尚品牌离不开对环境污染严重的工厂生产的粘胶。

　　Viscose, touted as a sustainable alternative to cotton or polyester, is often used as a cheaper and more durable alternative to silk, commonly in skirts and dresses. Experts say it is just as likely to be found in a ?10 t-shirt as a ?2,000 suit.

　　粘胶被认为是棉花或涤纶的可持续性替代品，常被用作丝绸的更廉价和更耐用的替代品，一般是用在裙子上。专家表示，一般在10英镑的T恤2000英镑的西装上能用到。

　　Investigators for the Changing Markets Foundation visited 10 manufacturing sites in China, India, and Indonesia, and found severe environmental damage including water pollution from untreated contaminated waste, and air pollution.

　　市场基金会的调查人员访问了中国、印度和印度尼西亚的10个生产厂，发现环境破坏严重，包括未经处理的污染废物和空气污染。

　　Most of the brands contacted by the Guardian have acknowledged that the impacts of viscose production are an industry-wide problem and say they are exploring ways to produce more responsibly.

　　卫报联系的大多数品牌都承认，粘胶生产的影响是一个全行业的问题，并表示他们正在探索如何更负责任地生产。

　　Also known as rayon, viscose is made from cellulose or wood pulp, often from soft woods like beech, pine and eucalyptus.

　　粘胶纤维也被称为人造丝，是用纤维素或木浆制成的，通常来自于山毛榉、松树和桉树等软木材。

　　Viscose production is also chemical-heavy. Central to the process is carbon disulphide, a highly volatile and flammable liquid. The report cites evidence that carbon disulphide exposure is harming both factory workers and people living near viscose plants. The toxin has been linked to coronary heart disease, birth defects, skin conditions and cancer. Historically its use was found to cause severe mental health problems in rubber factory workers exposed to high levels of the toxin.

　　粘胶的生产也同样要用到大量化学物质。中心物质是二硫化碳，这是一种高度挥发性和易燃的液体。证据表明，碳二硫化物暴露对工厂工人和生活在附近的人们都是有害的。这种毒素与冠心病、出生缺陷、皮肤病和癌症有关。历史上，它的使用被发现会导致橡胶工厂中暴露在高水平的毒素中工人有严重精神健康问题。

　　Other toxic chemicals used in the production of viscose include sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), and sulphuric acid.

　　在生产过程中使用的其他有毒化学物质包括氢氧化钠和硫酸。

　　One of the plants visited in the eastern province of Shandong was the Shandong CHTC Helon Company which the Changing Markets Foundation says supplies H&M, Inditex (Zara), and Marks & Spencer.

　　山东的这家工厂是属于山东CHTC海伦公司的，该公司市场负责人表示，该公司的产品有：H&M，Inditex(Zara)和Marks & Spencer。

　　The report alleges residential areas nearby to the factory are polluted with carbon disulphide levels three times higher than the permitted limit. According to the report, local people told investigators water from their well is now undrinkable due to pollution.

　　该报告称，工厂附近的居民区二氧化碳含量比允许的上限高出三倍。当地居民告诉调查人员，由于污染，他们的井水现在无法饮用。

　　The Shandong Helon plant has faced criticism in the past for excessive emissions of air pollutants. It was highlighted by the Institute of Public and Environmental Affairs, the NGO set up by prominent Chinese environmentalist Ma Jun, as a company which regularly exceeds discharge standards.

　　在过去，山东海伦工厂因排放过多的空气污染物而颇受诟病。由中国知名环保人士马军创办的非政府组织“公共与环境事务研究所”曝光了这一现象，表示该公司经常超过排放标准。

　　Natasha Hurley, campaign manager at Changing Markets, blames fast fashion’s emphasis on volume and quick turnaround on product lines.

　　市场部经理娜塔莎·赫尔利认为，快销品牌的重点在于产品数量和产品生产线的快速周转。

　　“Clearly the viscose producers themselves have a huge responsibility here, but what has become increasingly clear is that retailers are putting huge pressure on producers and asking them to cut costs, cut delivery times.”

　　“显然粘胶生产商本身有巨大的责任,但我们也很清楚,生产商和零售商的巨大压力迫使他们削减成本,缩短交货期。”

　　In response to the report, Ida St?hlnacke for H&M told the Guardian it was deeply concerned at the findings and would “follow up with mentioned viscose producers that we source from.” H&M says the chemically intense nature of viscose production means it is an industry wide problem and that they are working with an external consultant to evaluate their supply chains.

　　作为对该报告的回应，国际开发协会对《卫报》表示，它对调查结果十分重视，并将跟进我们所提供的粘胶生产商的相关信息。粘胶生产的特点意味着它是一个行业内广泛存在的问题，他们正与专家一起解决他们的供应链存在的问题。

　　A spokeswoman for Inditex spokeswoman said it works continuously with its suppliers to improve conditions and ensure that they adhere to sustainable practices. It says it will “publish our preferred viscose supplier list, according to compliance with our standards, at the end of this year.”

　　Inditex发言人说，公司一直在与供应商合作，改善条件，确保他们可持续生产，将根据我们的标准，在今年年底公布我们粘胶供应商名单。

　　Tesco did not comment on its viscose suppliers, other than to say it does not source from Shandong CHTC Helon Company. A spokesman said the retailer is committed to zero discharge of hazardous chemicals: “we will continue to work closely with our suppliers on these issues.”

　　Tesco没有对其所采用粘胶供应商做出任何评价，只是说它不来自山东CHTC海伦公司。一位发言人表示，他们的供应商致力于零排放有害化学物质，他们将继续与我们的供应商就这些问题进行协商。”

　　The report is calling for carbon disulphide to be completely eradicated from the viscose production process, and for all viscose production to occur in a closed loop system which eradicates chemical discharge and prevents harm to workers and the environment.

　　该报告呼吁将碳二硫化物从粘胶生产过程中彻底根除，并将所有的粘胶生产都应用于一个封闭系统中，从而实现零排放，防止对工人和环境造成危害。